Who's on the road (or could be), who is Not?

All general chat and questions relating to the BX 16valve.
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Toddman
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hi

Post by Toddman » Thu Aug 14, 2008 11:01 pm

Good to hear from you Dan and good to hear you are all doing well.
Shame the valver is not in use but then again at least the miles are kept down.
I am really starting to regret not puttimg mine on the road last year after some close inspection my quads are starting to corrode internally and I can only assume that is due to condensation caused by lack of use and I am going to have to get her booked in for wings,bumpers nad side skirts are going to come off and all the little bits of surface rust need removing and treating then a decent fully body waxoyl otherwise with its lack of use the rust will get hold and as we all know there is not a lot of metal there to feed the dreaded tin worms.

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Luke
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1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch

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Timmo
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Post by Timmo » Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:00 am

hey Dan!
re the battery, i have mine disconected due to a minor drain but have a solar trickle charger connected to it to keep it topped up! that way all i need to do is open the bonnet, connect the battery and start the ol' Girl!
(solar charger used to work in the garage with the light from the skylights!)
if yo ever make it down this way matey, chuck the bike in and we'll go for a ride matey!
Timmo 8)

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Vanny
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Post by Vanny » Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:16 pm

got to get mine MOT'd for next week (Thursday) but its in far too ragular use to have time to do anything with it. Spent three days fixing a lot of niggles last week, but the ABS still isnt working (hasnt for two years) and the front pipe has become like cheese pretty much over night. Then there is a horrible knocking on the front right corner which i guess must be the wishbone bushes as everything else has been checked multiple times!

The list of non critical things to sort is quite long as well, but it is getting daily useage (over 2000 miles in that ast 4 weeks!) and i still have a trip to coventry and to bristol and to stratford planned before the end of the month! Starting to need new tyres :(

But its all running rather well and i can occasionaly coax 37mpg+ from it (65mph all the way to coventry!) , and you know what, its a hell of a lot of fun!

Will it make it through the MOT though?

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Timmo
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Post by Timmo » Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:01 pm

best of luck Vanny! sounds like you may need it!
guessing youve done the abs test with the micrometer then?? i have a spare abs ecu if you need one??

your knocking, sure its not ARB drop links?? (not mot fail if is!)
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Vanny
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Post by Vanny » Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:42 am

As said, drop link has been changed so it aint that!

Not sure how a micrometer would help the ABS, sure sensor clearance is a key but you'd check that with feeler guages, not a micrometer. Anywho, its the rear O/S sensor thats packed up, not sure exactly how or why as the cable loos good, but it means swapping in a new arm as the sensors can't be removed successfully from the arm!

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cossie
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Post by cossie » Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:17 am

I have changed a rear sensor before.Admit it aint easy job but can be done.
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Toddman
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ABS

Post by Toddman » Sun Aug 17, 2008 2:12 pm

As Clive says you can remove the rear sensors sucessfully but best to remove the arm from the car first.
Resistance check on the sensor usually reveals the problem and if you feel the need you can often cut back the coax and splice in a new bit.
Wear on the rear arm bearings is the primary cause of rear ABS sensor failure but not sayimng that's the trouble here.

Good luck with MOT mate

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Luke
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1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch

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MoRtYMer
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Post by MoRtYMer » Sun Aug 17, 2008 5:31 pm

Why is the wear on the rear arms the cause for the rear abs sensor failure?
Image

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Timmo
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Post by Timmo » Sun Aug 17, 2008 5:32 pm

vanny, its a test done from inside the car through the wiring loom that lets you know what sensers are faulty!
Timmo 8)

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Toddman
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ABS

Post by Toddman » Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:30 pm

MoRtYMer wrote:Why is the wear on the rear arms the cause for the rear abs sensor failure?
It is just one of those things that seems to be connected - after speaking with numerous citroen mechanics it seems to be accepted that a deterioation,even if not noticeable by the wheel angles, of the bearings appears to stress the cabling to the rear ABS sensors.

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Luke
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1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch

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Vanny
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Post by Vanny » Mon Aug 18, 2008 12:21 pm

Timmo wrote:vanny, its a test done from inside the car through the wiring loom that lets you know what sensers are faulty!
One would use a MULTImeter to test electrical connectivity, not a MICROmeter. As i've already diagnosed which sensor is at fault, i'm clearly aware of sensor diagnosis. In fact for the last year i've had a dummy sensor plugged in so as to give the appearance that the ABS works (to the MOT man at least).

My biggest problem is on observation i can't find any damage to the coax, unusual as thats normally the cause. I suspect the fault is as a result of incorrect routing/affixing of the cable (its zip tied in place and the securing bracket is missing), but there is no obvious damage. I'll have to try and tackle the problem Wednesday as i'm away tomorrow and MOT is due Thursday, i also have a replacement front exhaust.

Ive managed to get only one sensor out of a rear arm (after multiple attempts) by destroying the arm (arm was shot to hell anyways), corrosion and dissimilar materials stop the things coming out and its not really feasible to add heat.

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Timmo
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Post by Timmo » Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:25 pm

Ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooops!
sorry, micrometer/multimeter, pah, only a slight difference!!!! :wink:
Timmo 8)

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thanuttiscotsman
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Post by thanuttiscotsman » Mon Aug 18, 2008 11:26 pm

lol timmo :lol:
1989 BX 16v ph1 Big project chipped, k+N, scorpion s/s, weber throttle body, Nitrous injection

1990 BX 16v ph2 (now scrapped)

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Toddman
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haha

Post by Toddman » Mon Aug 18, 2008 11:55 pm

LOL! :P
Indeed a multimeter would be best suited for the resustance check and a micrometer better off for checking crank journals but a vernier would be better for checking the sensor air gap or a bloody thick feeler gauge although I have to say trying to teach Vanny about eklectrical testing after his recent course the words grandmother and eggs springs to mind :D

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Luke
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1989 BX 16valve White 70k almost up to scratch

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Vanny
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Post by Vanny » Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:09 pm

nargh i hate electrics, i can find where the smoke has escaped from now, but i'm still flumaxed as to how the smoke gets in the wires in the first place!

I have built an entire wiring loom for a race car, which worked first time and everything!

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